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Tango Travel Journals
MONTREAL - PART I
Before I left I researched tango possibilities on the internet. I found many tango sites and dance events. I sent emails to every site saying I would be in town and asking for help in finding places to dance. The response was fabulous. The night I was to arrive there would be two practicas happening. In Montreal they define a practica as an opportunity to dance with a teacher present to help and answer questions. A milonga is strictly a dancing party.

So I decided to travel with only carry-on bags. The plane landed at 9:30 pm. I was off the plane, through Customs, and in a taxi by 9:45 pm. By 10:15 I was dancing tango in the arms of a man I had never met. (But I get ahead of myself)

I give the taxi cab driver the address I had; Tangueria, 5390 St Laurent. St. Laurent is a very European looking street with small doorways and at 5390 no sign of tango. We circled the block and then I see two women exit a doorway and recognize they are holding shoe bags. I told the cabbie to stop, he did, I jump out and yell, "Argentine Tango?" to the two women. They said, "Yes, but not here, go down the street to Academie de Tango Argentine, 4445 St Laurent."

I find the place and go up a set of tiny stairs to a very atmospheric tango hall. Nice size dance floor (about the size of Studio B only square). I pay my $5 Canadian and enter. I change my shoes and sit at a table one row off the dance floor. I see a friendly looking woman and I introduce myself to her as a visitor from out of town. I tell her I am looking for Louis Bourbonnais (my contact in Montreal). I had been corresponding with Louis and he gave me much useful information. He is not there. She introduces herself as Marilyn and her partner's name is Jean Pierre. They are very friendly. They get up to dance and I start looking at the people and the dancers. I notice a man to my right get up and go ask a woman to dance. She refuses as her partner/boyfriend is coming to her at that moment. The man returns to his table and sits.

I take a deep breathe, stand up and walk over to his table. I say, "I noticed that you wanted to dance. I am visiting from out of country, would you dance with me?" He says, "Of course." He was a fabulous dancer. His name was Joseph. He danced mostly close embrace. He was very considerate and slowly built the intimacy and intensity of our dances. After 5 or 6 dances, Joseph escorted me back to my table and asked if he could dance with me again later. I said, "I would very much like that."

So Marilyn and Jean Pierre come back to the table. I ask them if it is okay for women to lead here. I haven't seen any women leading. They are surprised at the question and wonder why I am asking. I told them I had visited other tango communities where leading by women was forbidden. Jean Pierre said, "But it is the man's job to lead, it is for the man to lead." I said, "Yes, I agree, and is it okay for me to lead here?" They said they thought it was fine. Marilyn said she would come back and ask me to lead her because she had never been lead by a woman.

I watch the dancers and notice I do not see huge, flamboyant moves. I am seeing very elegant, small movements, and connected partners. I am asked to dance several more times. Each leader is considerate and striving for connection. Fabulous, just fabulous. Marilyn comes to me while I am sitting and asks me to lead her. We had fun.

After I lead Marilyn, two other women come to me, introduce themselves, and ask me to lead them. My most favorite partner was this French Canadian woman about four feet tall, she was very tiny.. She had silver and black spiked hair, and appeared maybe in her late 50's, early 60's. Her voice was wonderful, a thick French accent, she sounded like she had smoked every day of her life, and her English was minimal. Of course, with tango, language is no problem. I escorted her to the dance floor and a milonga came on. I told her I wasn't confident with milonga, she said not to worry. It became evident almost immediately that she knew more about dancing milonga than many, many people I have danced with. So, she essentially back lead the song. I learned so much from her about milonga musicality, body movement, and fun. I really appreciated her.

After that dance I was exhausted, so I changed back to street shoes. I went over and thanked Lily, the woman running the practica, and went to find a taxi. I had been told by Louis that finding a taxi would be no problem no matter what time of night or day. He was right. Cost me $5 Canadian to get to my hotel. I was starving by that time and the front desk helped me order a pizza and soda. It's now about 1:30. I showered, ate my pizza, watched a movie, and feel asleep.
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MONTREAL
PART II
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